Aircraft double flaring tool

And again. Do not overtighten the butterfly-type nut. Thumb-and-index slight pressure is all that is required. Probably even less. Practice some more to see the different outcomes with different clamping pressure. If you overtighten this nut and screw, you will end up with an unperfect, out-of-round flare at the neck. If you undertighten it, the flaring cone will push the aluminum tube down the clamps specially if you lubricated it forehand. Happy flaring! Tool itself is 5-star.

Reason for the 4-star rating is the instructions. Ive never used a tool like this before, and the crumpled instruction sheet was a xerox of a xerox of a xerox of a xerox.

Makes me wonder about the overall quality in the long run. Very good flaring tool. Creates consistent flares with burnished finish. This is in my opinion one of the best flaring tools you can buy. I prefer it over other style tools, because of the rotating gauge that sets your tube position in relation to the flare and cone, eliminating a lot of guesswork and frustration. Since the gauge is incorporated into the mechanism for tightening the yoke, it only requires two hands to clamp and flare a tube, instead of three!

The recommendation to remove the edge is well-advised, and I think likely a workmanship issue that I did not notice on previous models.

I had one that I had purchased through Spruce almost 15 years ago which did not seem to leave a tool mark and while I dont know for certain where that one was manufactured, I left it behind in a move home from an overseas assignment this one came in a box marked Aprobado, Hannifin De Mexico, which tells you all you need to know.

Still, I would recommend this, as it saves a lot of stress, and is still the best option out there, in my opinion. Aircraft Spruce assumes no responsibility or liability for any issue or problem which may arise from any repair, modification or other work done from this knowledge base. Any product eligibility information provided here is based on general application guides and we recommend always referring to your specific aircraft parts manual, the parts manufacturer or consulting with a qualified mechanic.

Per Vendor: "It depends on the diameter of the tube itself. Quick Shop. Length Quantity. Your Cart. Quantity Delete. Add Options. Rolo-Flair Flaring Tool Figure 2. Tube cutting. A new piece of tubing should be cut approximately 10 percent longer than the tube to be replaced to provide for minor variations in bending. Place the tube in the cutting tool with the cutting wheel at the point where the cut is to be made. Rotate the cutter around the tubing, applying light pressure to the cutting wheel by intermittently twisting the thumbscrew.

Too much pressure on the cutting wheel at one time could deform the tubing or cause excessive burring. After cutting the tubing, carefully remove any burrs from inside and outside the tube. Use a knife or the burring edge attached to the tube cutter.

The deburring operation can be accomplished by the use of a deburring tool. Figure 3. Deburring tool. When performing the deburring operation, use extreme care that the wall thickness of the end of the tubing is not reduced or fractured. Very slight damage of this type can lead to fractured flares or defective flares, which do not seal properly. Use a fine-tooth file to file the end square and smooth. If a tube cutter is not available, or if tubing of hard material is to be cut, use a fine-tooth hacksaw, preferably one having 32 teeth per inch.

The use of a saw decreases the amount of work hardening of the tubing during the cutting operation. After sawing, file the end of the tube square and smooth, removing all burrs. An easy way to hold small diameter tubing, when cutting it, is to place the tube in a combination flaring tool and clamp the tool in a vise. Make the cut about one-half inch from the flaring tool.

This procedure keeps sawing vibrations to a minimum and prevents damage to the tubing if it is accidentally hit with the hacksaw frame or file handle while cutting. Be sure all filings and cuttings are removed from the tube. The objective in tube bending is to obtain a smooth bend without flattening the tube. For larger sizes, either portable hand benders or production benders are usually used. Figure 4 shows preferred methods and standard bend radii for bending tubing by tube size.

Figure 4. Standard bend radii to which bending tools form the various sizes of tubes. Using a hand bender, insert the tubing into the groove of the bender so that the measured end is left of the form block. Align the two zeros and align the mark on the tubing with the L on the form handle. If the measured end is on the right side, then align the mark on the tubing with the R on the form handle.

With a steady motion, pull the form handle until the zero mark on the form handle lines up with the desired angle of bend, as indicated on the radius block.

Figure 5. Tube bending. Hand benders come in different sizes that correspond to the tube diameter. Make sure to select the correct bender for the desired tube diameter. Figure 6 shows hand benders available for different sizes of tubing. Typically, the tubing size is stamped in the bender. Figure 6. Hand benders. Figure 7. Size identification. Bend the tubing carefully to avoid excessive flattening, kinking, or wrinkling.

A small amount of flattening in bends is acceptable, but the small diameter of the flattened portion must not be less than 75 percent of the original outside diameter. Tubing with flattened, wrinkled, or irregular bends should not be installed. Wrinkled bends usually result from trying to bend thin wall tubing without using a tube bender.

Excessive flattening causes fatigue failure of the tube. Examples of correct and incorrect tubing bends are shown in Figure 8. Figure 8. Correct and incorrect tubing bends. Tube bending machines for all types of tubing are generally used in repair stations and large maintenance shops.

With such equipment, proper bends can be made on large diameter tubing and on tubing made from hard material. Figure 9. Benders for larger sizes are available, and the principle of their operation is similar to that of the hand tube bender. The radius blocks are so constructed that the radius of bend varies with the tube diameter. The radius of bend is usually stamped on the block. When hand or production tube benders are not available or are not suitable for a particular bending operation, a filler of metallic composition or of dry sand may be used to facilitate bending.

When using this method, cut the tube slightly longer than required. The extra length is for inserting a plug which may be wooden in each end. The tube can also be closed by flattening the ends or by soldering metal disks in them. After plugging one end, fill and pack the tube with fine, dry sand and plug tightly.

Both plugs must be tight so they are not forced out when the bend is made. After the ends are closed, bend the tubing over a forming block shaped to the specified radius. In a modified version of the filler method, a fusible alloy is used instead of sand. The alloy-filled tubing is then removed from the water, allowed to cool, and bent slowly by hand around a forming block or with a tube bender. After the bend is made, the alloy is again melted under hot water and removed from the tubing.

When using either filler methods, make certain that all particles of the filler are removed. Visually inspect with a borescope to make certain that no particles are carried into the system in which the tubing is installed. Store the fusible alloy filler where it is free from dust or dirt. It can be re-melted and reused as often as desired.

Never heat this filler in any other way than the prescribed method, as the alloy will stick to the inside of the tubing, making them both unusable. Two kinds of flares are generally used in aircraft tubing: the single flare and the double flare. A flare made too small produces a weak joint, which may leak or pull apart; if made too large, it interferes with the proper engagement of the screw thread on the fitting and causes leakage.

A crooked flare is the result of the tubing not being cut squarely. If a flare is not made properly, flaws cannot be corrected by applying additional torque when tightening the fitting. The flare and tubing must be free from cracks, dents, nicks, scratches, or any other defects. Figure Cutaway view of single-flared A and doubleflared B tube ends.

Flaring tool. The single-flare hand flaring tool, similar to that shown in Figure 12, is used for flaring tubing. The tool consists of a flaring block or grip die, a yoke, and a flaring pin. The flaring block is a hinged double bar with holes corresponding to various sizes of tubing. These holes are countersunk on one end to form the outside support against which the flare is formed.

The yoke is used to center the flaring pin over the end of the tube to be flared. Two types of flaring tools are used to make flares on tubing: the impact type and the rolling type. Hand flaring tool. Use these tools only to flare soft copper, aluminum, and brass tubing. Do not use with corrosion-resistant steel or titanium. Cut the tube squarely and remove all burrs. Slip the fitting nut and sleeve on the tube. Loosen clamping screw used for locking the sliding segment in the die holder.

This permits their separation. The tools are self-gauging; the proper size flare is produced when tubing is clamped flush with the top of the die block. Insert tubing between the segments of the die block that correspond to the size of the tubing to be flared.

Advance the clamp screw against the end segment and tighten firmly.